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| The early morning setup for the IGLU seminar |
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| Across the inlet, further East, the current stand of aerials & towers |
It only took five hours on “the land”
to
begin to understand the long and well-entrenched history of
Cambridge Bay, Nunavut. On a Saturday morning...with a late morning
sunrise around eleven a.m., down on the coast of the bay, east of
town, I listened. As each introduction had occurred, I was warmly
welcomed to Cambridge Bay even though the winds were gently blowing at 15
kph and the temperature hovered around -30C.
That morning, I had met elders,
community leaders and various residents...each with a tale to tell...
not initially but eventually...and it all had happened during the
uprising. As each snow block was fitted, as each course of “snow
bricks” was positioned...as the structure began to rise.
The elders constructed their circular
dwelling...a tradition of generation's past....as a demonstration for
those gathered. The slow, but steady, pace had allowed time for
conversation...with answers and comments to my endless stream of
questions.
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One of the Elders at the IGLU raising...skipping to
warm her feet with the Old Stone Church behind |
That demonstration, by those elders, of
their "snow house of the past" had to be one of the highlights of this arctic
adventure. Once built, the stable cold weather, above the magic
circle, assures that an IGLU remains a viable winter landmark
offering protection from the winter winds and available as an
emergency shelter should the need arise.
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| After 2 weeks the IGLU stood strong but drifted against the winter winds |
Before I left Cambridge Bay, last
monday, something drew me back to that site...something I had read
during my stay. It had concerned the use and functionality of these
“iglus”. I went back to visit, somewhat like saying goodbye to a
“new friend” knowing you'll never see them ever again.
I took a trek that sunday morning to
see if the kids in town had decided to try some demolition...in the
two weeks since its construction. I had thought that might happen, as
with kids everywhere who are usually thinking “for the fun of the
moment”...but it had not happened.
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| Too large for fox...too small for bear...wolverine?, dog? wolf? |
Was it respect for tradition and
history? Possibly. Respect of a creation made by their grandparents
as traditions do run deep in these northern communities...or was it
just too far from town for a convenient “joy ride” on a snow
machine in these cold days of January?
We'll never know...but that sunday, as
I stepped off the dock and over the drifts, with the sun trying
desperately to rise on my right, there...in the distance I could see
an outline where the activity of two weeks earlier had
occurred...current status unknown. In less than ten minutes, I would
know its current condition and adjust my hike accordingly.
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| The early rising sun at the IGLU site among the drifts |
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| The drifted snow down at the boat docks with the aerials behind |
I made my way out on the ice along the
coastal banks and arrived where the elders and others had toiled two
weeks earlier. The snow had drifted from the prevailing winds that
seems to blow almost non-stop here. There were small structures...snowman, an inukshuk and pieces of snow and ice scattered in the
area. All were drifted.
From the changes that had happened in a
mere two weeks, I paused to wonder what it would look like once
spring set in. When those warm rays of the sun would begin to melt the surface....getting progressively stronger each day as the frozen ice would
become slushy during daylight...only to re-freeze as darkness
followed.
The sun was now high enough to reflect off the Iglu. There were animals tracks around it. I
didn't crawl inside for fear there might be something living there
not friendly to humans. A few inches off the ground were many yellow
stains against the structure...the results of dogs or wolves. It's
true..don't eat the yellow snow!
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| The "screen saver" that started the investigation |
The sky was clear and blue with few
clouds. The rising red to the south cast a palette of purples and
pinks...and everything in between on the sky to the north. Across
the bay, the early morning “ice fog” was clearing and the large stone Cairn
marking “The Maude” was now easily visible.
To its right, higher on the land, sat
the “old church”...reconstructed after the fire and currently
boarded up for the winter to prevent it from happening again. Past
the church, in the distance was an “aerial farm”...a collection
of dishes and antennas, along with the supporting power cables and
posts...each one a component contributing to our connection with the
world beyond.
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Facing south and east across the inlet at the end of January. In 2 weeks,
the sun had travelled further East & West at sunrise/sunset and was higher in the sky each day at noon |
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| In 2006 the Loran tower was visible for many miles |
Some towers had lights flashing on
them, providing constant warnings to air pilots every few seconds by
marking their locations. But the skyline of Cambridge Bay had
changed...not since I arrived but in the past two years. This modernization of the Arctic had occurred before my tour, and not
everyone was a true believer.
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| Cambridge Bay from the East above the Loran tower |
During my preparations in December, I
had “toured” Cambridge Bay on Google Earth. I had travelled each
street to assist in getting some future bearings...which really helped once I arrived. This
was made even more important by the winter darkness during my free
time. Though the street lights helped immensely, it was a comfort to
be able to recognize buildings and streets and aided in my “not”
getting lost on my hikes around the hamlet.
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| The old tower, no longer present |
During my “Google” tours, I had
clicked on various buttons and looked at the photos that had been
posted by previous visitors for all the world to see. The current
reality was a bit different as most of the images posted were taken
during warmer, and many times, snow-free periods. Now that I was
here, it didn't take long to realize that something was missing.
One of the girls in the health centre
had a screen saver on her desktop that was the view from town across
this inlet of the bay, towards the sites of the Maude and the Old
Stone Church...the original church. It held the clue. Now missing was
a landmark...a CN TOWER equivalent to Cambridge Bay. The LORAN
tower was gone. More legwork and questions...only to discover the
reality of today's technology.
It seems that the almost 300 meter
tower held the old LORAN-C radio direction beacon, used as a
navigational aid for shipping during the second half of the twentieth
century like many other towers spread across this country. In this modern age of GPS technology and miniaturized
electronic gadgets, its use was not only outdated but many times had
survived being put “down”.
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| Inside the old tower as it stood years ago |
Like some lighthouses around the world
it was considered too expensive to maintain with more modern, reliable and
cheaper alternatives already in use. Finally in 2010, the American
Coast Guard and Transport Canada declared the LORAN system obsolete. After some 60 years following the system's acceptance and installation world-wide, it is no
longer operating in North America.
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| The Old Stone Church presently restored but sealed for the winter |
For a few years this mighty mast
continued to display lights. Its shear presence of height acted as a
beacon to the many returning by boat or snow machine (depending on
the time of year) to Cambridge Bay. It no longer stands proud...as it's
been removed.
There's still the concrete base buried
in the current snow and the concrete pads that held the support
cables steadying the tall structure in the gusts and blows of arctic
weather in the half century since its installation.
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| The Old Stone Church in July 2006 after the fire |
The Arctic is changing, but it's still hard to say goodbye to an old friend. For the inhabitants of Cambridge Bay,
Nunavut, there is some loss and a sadness. It's hard to lose a
friend...a beacon that guided you on your journeys and one that helped
you find your way home over “this beautiful land” as its often described by many of the Inuit.
EDITOR'S NOTE: The photos showing the original Tower & the Church are courtesy of Timothy K. RG Bacon and Andre Akana Otokiak...from Google Earth submissions.
