The Hamlet of Arviat, the modern town hall |
The morning has broken. The cycle of
darkness into light continues this morning with a spectacular
sunrise. With the temperature hovering around -26 and the winds being
light, the swirling of the snow often seen here is non-existent this
morning at sunrise. That may change later...as it often does in the
Arctic.
Looking down the street, after the re-freeze on Saturday |
Wednesday message from the GN regarding tuesday's weather |
That Wednesday morning when I signed
into a terminal in the Arviat Health Centre, the GN (Government of
Nunavut) Outlook page showed the results of the storm that had
started Tuesday and had moved around. I didn't have to read each
notice...as the topics were descriptive enough and we've been through
more than a few of these notices, since my first arrival in January
2008.
Tuesday after heading home after work |
That year, I learned some valuable
northern traditions. These are non-Inuit but provide good advice for
all travellers..in all countries. I was scheduled to fly out after
lunch that Monday in January....it never happened...to quote the
Rankin Inlet page on Wikipedia “Beginning
on January 16, 2008, Rankin Inlet endured the longest recorded
blizzard in Canada.
Wind
speed was 74 km/h (46 mph) or above, with gusts to 90 km/h (56 mph),
and wind
chill values
were as low as -58C. The blizzard lasted 7 days 5 hours.”
AND I was there.
Blue Jay Hot Dogs...season premonition??? We hope not!!! |
Traditions are a large part of life and
community in the north. The valuable lessons learned that day
included don't expect your flight to go out, don't use up all your
fresh clothes, AND don't give away all your food. That tradition
continued this week when I returned from Arviat. In my bin, I still
had some slices of cheese...some packets of dried soup, a package of
mashed potatoes and the remnants of a pack of Schneiders All Beef
Hotdogs...official snack food of the TORONTO BLUE JAYS...(currently
1-8...cue the tears...sob,sob).
The ATR 24 was sitting on the concrete pad awaiting crew and passengers. |
The Calm Air flight MO563 was scheduled
for 0915. Boarding would begin at 0845, according to my boarding
pass. No seats were assigned in this 22 passenger plane. I had
arrived early to confirm, relax and look at the interesting signs
posted inside the terminal. You can learn so much from a notice board
any place you go.
Aerial view of ARVIAT...taken a few years ago |
On the walls of the freshly painted
terminal, the old photos showing the Inuit traditions, the aerial map
made years ago when this settlement was so much smaller...Old Town
and New Town were terms I had heard, but this trip I didn't have the
time or strength to explore due to workload...and the weather was
certainly not cooperative, as well.
Overnight heated engine warmers in place on the Calm Air ATR |
By 0810, I was already third in line. I
was processed efficiently, got my boarding pass, my bin checked and
my carry on weighed. I watched them prepare the plane that had sat on
its concrete pad amid the gravelled runway overnight. The engine
warmer covers were stripped away. The plugs blocking the engine
exhaust and intake were removed. The props were rotated to ensure
their smooth operation would occur. As they were rotated a visual
inspection occurred. The steps were raised and lowered as the
airplane crew arrived to begin their preflight.
Hunting is a tradition in this community. This house fairly successful !!! |
Finally, the extension cord that ran
from the terminal over to the ATR turbo prop was disconnected and
dragged across the gravel to the back of a support vehicle. That
cable had kept the plane partially heated overnight since its arrival
the previous evening. The cargo was transferred and loaded.
Two things excite air travellers, in
the north. The arrival of their aircraft, or the sight of it resting
on the airfield when you drive up, brings joy since you've got a
reasonable expectation of flight...of course, this is always subject
to a mechanical postponement or a weather forecast at your
destination.
The main mode of transport for many |
The other thing that delights many is
an increasing barometric pressure in the weather forecast. If the air
pressure trend is rising, you are probably going to have clear skies
and good weather. A falling barometer indicates a low pressure
gradient will soon arrive and with it storms, clouds and who knows
what.
The luggage "belt" in Arviat airport terminal |
The terminal became congested as more
arrived. It was the thursday before Good Friday. Families were
heading off to visit families. People were heading to Winnipeg
through Rankin's airport. Others were off to other destinations.
They were heading to Repulse Bay to visit family, they were taking
their dog to Whale Cove, their cat to Baker Lake and some (like me)
were heading back to Rankin to continue their contract!
One of our fellow passengers dressed to visit her aunt in Repulse Bay. |
All manner of cargo and baggage arrived. Gun cases, bins, cardboard boxes reinforced with tape...the addresses clearly visible for all to see. The dog and cat remained crated and were calm and quiet. The dog was a Cocker Spaniel/Golden Retriever mix. People were following the sign clearly above the luggage slide telling them the rules.
Cocker/Golden Mixed Cargo to Whale Cove |
They announced the flight. I could hear
the voice directly in the waiting room, the PA was silent throughout
her talk even though her hand held the mike to her mouth. I stood up,
got my gloves and hat in place for the march across the gravel as she
counted heads. No photo ID needed here as the count was less than 15
and she had remembered everyone that had checked in. I showed my
boarding pass, and was though the door down the metal steps.
People were embracing and probably
shedding tears behind me as I strolled towards our plane. I turned
and looked back as well walked single file towards the blue and cream
coloured ATR. Explore the north was emblazened near the door to the
left of the stairs. I climbed aboard tried to stow my carry on on
above my head and sat down on the leather seats. They were cool but
not cold. The heaters overnight had done their work.
The white frozen tundra with "open water" visible |
The door was sealed, the engines warmed
and soon after we were taxiing out, making the turn and lifting off.
Below the arctic tundra...white...frozen...with a hand full of lakes
that appeared open...possibly spring fed the passenger next to me
stated. The ATR's don't fly as high as the jets so you can see the
beauty beneath you.
In less than 90 minutes touched down in
Whale Cove, exchanged passengers and cargo and continued on to Rankin
Inlet. We were home. We were the second plane to land as another ATR
was parked and the people were exiting when we approached the
terminal building. As we exited towards that familiar green shelter,
another ATR had landed and was approaching us. As I waited for my
luggage bin to arrive on the luggage belt I noticed them towing out
the stairs for the 737. Within moments it came into view and
gracefully touched down...Four planes within a half hour.
“Welcome to Rankin Inlet” they had
said a few moments before we had descended the steps of the ATR. Was
only yesterday and I was home...for now!