Ice Breakers

Researcher and Explorer Roald Amundsen
dressed in skins

The Norwegian born, arctic explorer, Roald Amundsen has quite the Canadian connection. He is recognized in many ways. One of the current Canadian Coast Guard Ice Breakers is named in his honour. AMUNDSEN is a medium class T-1200 size design built in North Vancouver and was originally commissioned in 1979 as the Sir John Franklin, the famous Arctic explorer lost in the Cambridge Bay area of the Arctic.

Sir John's namesake was assigned to clear ice in the St. Lawrence and along eastern shores of Canada...being based in both Quebec City and Dartmouth. In summers, she was used as backup for the Arctic sea lift resupply missions until 1995. The Canadian Coast Guard, under the management of the Department of Transport, was transferred to the federal Department of Fisheries and Oceans. Shortly thereafter she was moth-balled as surplus.

Canadian Coast Guard Ship "AMUNDSEN"

The next summer season she was used as an accommodations vessel under private contract for mining explorations at Voisey Bay in Labrador. “Sir John Franklin” was decommissioned from the Canadian Coast Guard in 2000.

For her, the phoenix rose again in 2003 when a consortium of universities partnered with the Department of Fisheries & Oceans to replace her cargo holds with an intricate selection of research laboratories to enable continuous research with international partners. Now renamed “Amundsen” after the famous Norwegian Arctic researcher, she was scheduled for upgrades.

The AMUNDSEN performing research in the Arctic

In order to become an Arctic Ocean research vessel, the shipyard in Les Mechins, Quebec added a “moon pool” during the retrofit. This innovation allowed scientists access to the ocean through the hull of the vessel eliminating the boring of holes through the ice for the lowering of scientific research equipment.

As part of the agreement with the consortium, the ship is crewed by the Canadian Coast Guard and is used for Ice Breaking duties in the St. Lawrence and Eastern Canada. This allows her to be used for Arctic research assignments from May-December by the ArcticNet group.

When the Canadian High Arctic Research Station, currently under construction, in Cambridge Bay opens next year, the international cooperation of all Arctic countries will no doubt involve the data collected these past years onboard the Amundsen.

The AMUNDSEN in May 2013 at Port Weller Dry Docks, St. Catharines

In December 2011, during a preliminary ice breaking inspection, her duties were suspended immediately for a year when 4 of her 6 engines were discovered to be cracked. Immediate repairs brought her to the Port Weller Dry Dock shipyards in St. Catharines...another heavy industry in Niagara that exists no more.

Ironically I found a photo of her sitting on the east side of the Welland Ship canal near the dry docks facilities from May of 2013 as she went back into service having missed the entire 2012 navigational season.

In July she was again on the water performing her role as the floating research link. On September 9, the helicopter from the Amundsen while on a scouting mission ahead of the ship, crashed killing all three aboard. Clear skies and good visibility prevailed but disaster had struck.

Searching through the ice for the best route

The Commander of the Amundsen, Marc Thibault was aboard the helicopter along with a University of Manitoba arctic researcher, Klaus Hochheim. The craft was piloted by Daniel Dube. All three bodies were recovered in their orange survival suits and the Messerschmidt S105 helicopter was located in 450 meters of water and was recovered later.

It's a sad reminder that even today this is a most-challenging and harsh environment that must be respected at all times...a reason I have always carried a plasticized business card under the insert soles in each of my boots. Preparedness...you are better with it...than without.

The new polymer $50 Canadian depicts the Amundsen -- front & centre

While the Amundsen continues as a highly visible symbol of Canadian sovereignty, the CCGS “Amundsen” has another important role in the economy of Canada that you may not realize. She graces the obverse side of the new polymer $50 bill....front and centre. 

A Quirk of Fate

The setting sun yesterday
looking east over the frozen waters of Rankin Inlet

Who knew? Less than a month after arriving home in Niagara...that my Arctic winter gear would be pulled from storage and I would be back to the Arctic once again...my fourth trip in eight years...all occurring in the months of January through March...and all relatively short term.

Roald Amundsen, the great Norwegian explorer made four arctic expeditions...but his adventures lasted 3 to four years each time...and were well planned in advance to accomplish scientific discoveries. He also beat Scott to the South Pole by a month!

Winterized site of Amundsen's "Maud" in Cambridge Bay in January

While I'm not planning any excursions to the Antarctic, my discoveries have been mostly medical (with some beautiful sceneries along the way). Those arctic adventures have lasted anywhere from 3 to seven weeks...all in the dead of winter....with snow, ice and blizzards at no extra charge!

Amundsen's Maud built for Arctic exploration pictured at anchor in 1918

It's probably time to relate the past month and more specifically the past two weeks...and update you on my current life here in Rankin Inlet near the Arctic Circle as you are, no doubt, surprised by this news. The west coast of Hudson's Bay may be frozen, but the staff here at Kivalliq Regional Health Centre are as warm and friendly as ever...and my welcome back on Tuesday was not what I had expected...it was heart warming!!!

Kivalliq Health Centre waited and the staff welcomed me back

Since I returned home in February from Cambridge Bay, the blog postings had decreased BUT THE RESEARCH HAD CONTINUED. I am currently putting the final touches on articles about Amundsen's adventures (which took my research to the South Pole for a while)....and the connection of his 3^rd famous ship, The Maud, which is currently in 30 feet of ice and water...resting on the bottom of Cambridge Bay.  Also, I've been busy with research on the RCMP vessel, St. Roche...its Canadian connection to Niagara and what I discovered about it, while in Cambridge Bay as well...so stay tuned.

Prepping the planes at CYRT Rankin Inlet

Two weeks ago, I got a call...sort of an SOS...from the Technical Services Manager at Rankin Inlet. Matt was surprised that I was thawed out....so to speak and wondered if I could help out for a short three week stint. A whole range of questions ensued....valid police check from past six months etc., but to complicate things further...he was heading out on his annual leave with his family for a month and would be gone by the time I was onsite.

On the left, a new 3 story building in Rankin Inlet since last April
One of many new structures since last year

Things move slowly in the north...approvals take time...and, even with the instant communications available on the internet, one has to be patient. Dates were arranged, clearances approved...and then I came down with the current “Malady de Jour” that is sweeping Niagara...the head cold...sore throat combination...it lasted more than a week. This caused me to miss shifts at the store...the staff even sent me home one day!

No roads interconnect the 26 Hamlets in Nunavut...only Water & Air

Thank goodness we had an extra day in February this year...and the staff at the Kivalliq Health Centre and the local GN (Government of Nunavut) offices were able to start the process. Then the local GN offices were closed due to a flooding issue...so everything had to be handled across the Bay in Iqaluit...oh and did I mention that there are three time zones across Nunavut. To further complicate things. All internet traffic and cell service is handled through satellite.

So by the 23^rd of February, after a three day blizzard over the weekend and Monday here in Rankin Inlet the wheels were turning...slowly...but turning, just the same. I was scheduled to fly out on Sunday...the 28^th. More complications were thrown into the mix...Matt and his family decided to leave a day earlier since another blizzard storm low pressure area was expected to hit here on Friday the 26^th.

First Air, Calm Air, Canadian North, and Bearskin Airlines are vital 

By now you are starting to get the picture...everyone was reassuring, but the results were still a vapour trail. During my store shift on the 26^th, I kept checking my emails for my confirmation. In the afternoon, around three, I got an email from the new director of the Health Centre telling me “we are working on it!” Still no Air tickets or itinerary. Nothing had showed, when I left the store at 5 on Friday. Knowing Rankin Inlet was an hour behind, we still had some time....but the windows were closing rapidly.

The First Air 737 arriving at CYRT last night

I got home and checked...still nothing. I was starting to accept maybe a Tuesday flight possibility when the magic of the internet chimed...It was a “You've got Mail “ moment without the voice. I looked at the dates and discovered I was flying on Monday now, a leap year flight....but my bookings on Air Canada and Calm Air fights were solid...Monday would be the day.

The luggage arriving for the luggage belt in Rankin Inlet

I checked weather reports for Winnipeg and Toronto and made the necessary bookings for the Airbus to get to the airport. It would be a 6 a.m. pickup for the 11 a.m. flight to Winnipeg this time...a much more civilized booking than the 3 a.m. pickup of  a few weeks before.

I had a three hour layover in Winterpeg (-27C this day) to get my Air Canada baggage and then check in at Calm Air...time for a light lunch...then off to Rankin. All was proceeding as scheduled....that is until check in at the Calm Air counter.

My home and vehicle this trip

Regional carriers are smaller operations...and combine that with the weather of the north and the temperatures in which they operate...things happen. My three hour layover was  extended...the two hour jet ride north, previously scheduled for 3:15 was now 4 p.m. This trend continued until we departed at 6:15 under the cover of darkness. It was a “waiting for equipment to return from a previous flight” problem.

All the comforts of "home"

We touched down at CYRT  Rankin Inlet at 8:30...after a delicious Pasta with Vegetables entre preceded by a salad topped with Kraft sundried tomato dressing. The first glass of Red was free...the second cost $5 cash...the currency of the north! Even 2 glasses of wine could not help improve the lima beans...I kept saying to myself “fresh” vegetables...you won't have any for three weeks.....while the voice on the other shoulder said “What are you doing? Have you tasted these things? The voice on the shoulder won out!

The luggage box attached to the first front end loader arrived at the window outside the luggage belt. A couple of beeps later it started to move and a couple of pet cages move into the terminal followed by a myriad of crates, boxes, hockey bags and then other more usual pieces of luggage. Another front end loader replaced the first allowing it a return trip to the 737.

On top of the plywood crate was my suitcase...and close behind on the belt, the rubbermaid crate emerged...I looked around and spotted Nancy from the Health Centre there to pick me up. It had been her third trip to the airport for me based on the delays. A big smile and a hug, we were loaded and off to the apartment.

2 Bedrooms, Washer and Dryer and TV

It's located in the new Section 6 of Rankin Inlet and my room mate in the 1000 square foot transient apartment is my room mate from last year, Les. After, a quick discussion, we found out we are on the same plane exiting the same day to Winnipeg. The irony is for the second year in a row we are celebrating St. Patty's Day here in Rankin Inlet...and he is a psychiatric nurse....so my sessions are free!!!!!

The sun setting over the new section of town all set for housing

I'm due back in Niagara, the week before Easter...and like any good resident here..my blogging will be caught up quickly if we have another 3 or 4 day blizzard. The staff are hoping as next week the kids are on spring break...and next weekend is a major hockey tourney so I'll be in all weekend for the shoulders, ankles, hands and hips.

The morning sun rose bright today...the air is crisp at -36C with sunny blue skies...and winds around the 20 KPH speed range...Up here, you dress for the weather...HEY...It's Canada...It's Winter...Embrace It !!!  It's also the Arctic in early March...spring is coming!

NOTE with Thanks!:

I can only thank the manager and staff at Henry's in St. Catharines for helping me get away on such short notice. Also to my wife and partner...who had not quite completed my re-training once I had arrived home in early February...and now has to have me trained in time for the Easter Bunny!