IGLU 101

The sun was rising on a historic day...11 a.m.

Most of my stories begin with an idea, an opportunity or some information either read or relayed. Such was the happening scheduled last saturday here in Cambridge Bay, Nunavut. The most interesting of notes on the bulletin board raised my interest earlier last week. I had missed the same event in Rankin Inlet both times I have been there and I was determined not to miss it this time.

One of two tents and the "supply" qamutik sled.
The first snow blocks are towards the hill.

Friday afternoon, I had dialed the Library and my contact there confirmed the schedule and told of the location. Saturday morning, after getting called into the health centre for another snowmobiling incident and completing my patient...I was off. The sky...clear and blue, the wind..a slight breeze. The sun about to rise above the horizon to our south...only the fourth day to do so. It was -24C.

The snow block panels have been carved and removed...only 28 to go

Wearing long underwear, a heavy shirt, 2 sweaters, my head hood, jeans and over pants, 2 pairs of socks, mitts and all, I was headed out onto the land...following our road to the east, then out on the bay shore half way to the Cairn marking the Maude. My first iglu...from start to finish...There were only 2 questions today. Would I be able to stay there in this weather and.....would my camera battery last?

Before Saturday morning, I had done a little research into Iglus and since then, have completed more. That's why it's taken so long to tell the entire tale. As I travelled along the road, you could start to see the sun trying to rise above the horizon. I walked past the old Hudson's Bay trading post, the old boat in front buried by a wind blown drift.

Fresh "ice" chopped from the reservoir and wrapped
to keep clean for our tea and coffee

The odd truck and or snow machine drove past in either direction. When I got to the end of the street overlooking the bay, in the distance, I could see some activity about half way along the south shore towards the Maude recovery site. I walked down the hill, past the old “northern”store, turned right and walked out onto the docks there...down the gangway and stepped up and over the drift and then onto the ice.

The latest technology for a centuries old tradition

The ice had stress cracks, some clear spots and gradual drifts of up to 20 centimeters. I just marched on as the drifts here support your weight...very seldom do you punch through. If you break the crust, you go in about an inch, sometimes deeper but its just the uneveness with the snow drifts that makes it difficult to manoeuvre.

The Coleman cook stoves were used to heat the "ice" for coffee/ tea 

Closer now, I could see several snow machines and a qamutik (sled), parked neatly in front of one the two canvas tents erected on the snow near the shore. the sledge acted as a wind break to the front flap of one. The tents were just canvas tents, the same you would see on the documentaries of arctic explorers or gold rush participants, held in place by wooden stakes just pounded into the snow's crust.

A layer of plastic tarp was kept in place as flooring by snow piled along the edge providing a wind brake, not allowing the wind to get inside. A flap was opening and closing as gear was moved in and out. I found Peter filling the Coleman stove to be used later. There were some snow blocks already cut and removed just behind the tent towards the shore.

Shadows on the snow...it's almost noon and
the sun was rising higher but we were at the shore

I looked over the equipment. An axe, a Stanley saw still remaining in the store packaging, a couple of shovels stood ready for use and a thermos sat near where the initial blocks had been removed. Little did I know this would become theentrance. Another snow machine arrived, and another left and the word spread that the “elders” would soon be here. The crowd began to grow (in Cambridge Bay more than five can be considered a crowd).

The arrival of the some of the "elders", the sun now on the buildings

I introduced myself to the elementary school teachers, a couple of the heritage society members, a fella from the Canadian High Arctic Research Station and another from a radio station in Yellowknife. It seemed that, at the moment, I was the lone representative of the health centre. Another qamutik towed by Skidoo followed by another Polaris pulling the last qamutik sled...the elders were here.

Others just "hoofed" it

As the sun rose higher in the sky, I noticed the hill behind had become red at the top and as time progressed this redness moved down the hill side towards the gathering. Eventually we were bathed in sunlight. While it was morale boosting, there was no heat from its beam. A pickup had tried to move out onto the ice but its driver had missed the proper access point and was mired...a bobcat was dispatched to help her along.

The "snow walker" with two canes and the caribou for the luncheon

From the truck activity, I watched a single person walking our way. As they got closer, I could see that he was pushing a small sled. Attached to this snow "walker", were two canes, in front was a leg of caribou for the stew. This elder pushed on to the second tent and dropped off the leg for later use. He returned to snow zero and the conference of the elders began. By this time some of the town's people were instructed how to cut the snow panels, with the saw...following the lines drawn on the snow surface by the elders...then going deeper with each pass. A slight curve to each panel,section or block (yes the curve goes to the INSIDE!).

Rear right leg of lunch

In the carribean, it would be called a machete. Above the magic circle, it was referred to as a “snow knife”. For any construction, drawings as used...but today one of the elders took some snow from a broken block and formed a rough template, much to the delight of those gathered.

The ends of the panels were defined and trimmed and then one of the elders would make horizontal cuts underneath to make each panel about 16 inches in height...about the same distance as between studs in new construction...down south. A little pressure would be applied and the block would pop free...and be lifted and placed in a row next to the others. More panels were cut and extracted and lined up ready for the anticipated assembly.

The tent with tarp floor and snow to hold the tarp and block the wind

After about 20 pieces had been extruded from the snow, another gathering of the elders and Noah took his snow knife and dragging the snow knife through the crust, he walked making a circle in the snow. The plans had been made...final on-site modifications had been discussed and construction was about to begin. The area where the original panels had been removed was about to become the entrance.

The entrance tunnel with first "half" block in place

A broken piece of panel was trimmed and blocked about half the width of the entrance tunnel. Noah scoured the alignment of panels searching for that special one. He selected it and moved back to the entrance panel. He placed it so that it rested on both sides of the tunnel...a few swishes with the snow knife caused the angle to shift slightly towards the inside of the circle...a few more and the ends were trimmed.

The template...on any good construction job you need a plan

As the threesome moved to their left with each successive panel, the angles, edges and tops were “trimmed”...The first layer had been completed. It was time for them to take a break before the second layer was fashioned and placed. This took longer that the first since they were adjusting angles as each piece fit.

The edges were not butted completely, and the gaps between would be filled with snow and pieces later. After all, this was just the beginning. The frame had been started...which means it's probably a good time to review the reason an iglu would have been built by these men and their ancestors.

Meanwhile, even in Nunavut, a woman can still draw a crowd.

The function of the iglu was to provide shelter from the biting winds and cold temperatures. It would take 40 panels to make the entire dwelling. Once made, it was permanent for the season. It could be built by two people...in less than an hour. After completion, the inside could be heated with a candle bringing the temperature to a comfortable level.

The placements are about to begin

The heated inside would form an ice dome which further strengthened the structure and made it so comfortable that the Inuit could discard their heavy fur outer garments...furs and hides were used as bedding and placed on top of the packed snow providing a layer of insulation from the frost below.

Early explorers brought their knowledge to the arctic...spending months building stone structures to survive the cold harsh winters, only to visit their Inuit neighbours...warm and comfortable in their “ice houses”. The stone structures would have been wonderful if adequate wood was readily available for continuous heat, but this is the far north...way above the tree line. No supply of wood was available unless you had brought it along.

The call goes out...more blocks!!!! the sun is now shining on us...

The smart explorers were quick to switch to the ice domes. Those more rigid in their ways stayed in their tents and other man made structures and frostbite was common.  Time and again, the Inuit showed the white man that adapting to the climate was easier than fighting against.

Those that listened...learned that even in this harsh environment... life can be made easier...above the magic circle!

NEXT TIME:
LUNCH on the "LAND"

Looking south on a winter's day as "IGLU101" begins!